The mechanism of seam pucker in structurally jammed woven fabrics

G. Stylios, D. W. Lloyd

Research output: Contribution to journalReview articlepeer-review

21 Citations (Scopus)


It is well known that “puckering of seams” is a problem that has been troubling the clothing industry for a long time, and particularly when, as now, fashion dictates the manufacture of delicate and lightweight garments. The seam pucker due to structural jamming which often occurs, is believed to be caused by the inherent fabric constructional properties, i.e. to be a purely fabric problem. However, in the present work, it was observed experimentally that cutting the stitches on both sides of the fabric always reduced the amount of pucker, even where all other causes of pucker had been, as far as possible, eliminated. This led to the conclusion that the sewing thread, or some interaction between thread and fabric, played an important part in causing pucker. These observations were further explored by carrying out experiments for which the relative magnitudes of various properties of the fabric and sewing thread were determined. Analysis of these results was related to the occurrence or non-occurrence of pucker and provided a possible explanation for the mechanism underlying structural jamming pucker.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)5-11
Number of pages7
JournalInternational Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
Issue number1
Publication statusPublished - 1989

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Business, Management and Accounting (miscellaneous)
  • Materials Science (miscellaneous)
  • General Business,Management and Accounting
  • Polymers and Plastics


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