Investigating Markers of Authenticity: The Weavers’ Perspective Insights from a Study on Bhutanese Hand-woven Kira Textiles

In spite of recent changes in technology, skills, materials, production, design and marketing that have impacted on traditional Bhutanese hand-woven 'kiras' (the traditional national dress for Bhutanese women), the textile today still remains essentially ‘Bhutanese’. Through engaging with the weaving community to understand and identify the markers of authenticity of Bhutanese hand-woven kira textiles, this study aims to answer the question what makes a kira, a kira? By examining the responses of weavers and observing a wide range of kiras worn, the findings are analyzed through various theories of authenticity. This study proposes that physical markers of authenticity of hand-woven kira textiles are to be found in a framework comprising the weaver’s intention, the cultural context and the psyche of Bhutanese society.