Influence of core spun yarn characteristics on shrinkage and stretch behavior of woven fabrics

This study investigates how twist multiplier (TM) and core-spun yarn composition affect the shrinkage and stretch behavior of woven fabrics. Using a full-factorial design of experiment, 24 fabric samples were produced using cotton (CO) warp yarns (4.3TM and 5.0TM) and 12 core-spun weft yarns (4.3TM and 5.0TM) incorporating Lycra core in three different deniers (40D, 70D, and 140D) and addition of T400 (75D) filament in the dual-core yarns. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) and main effects plots reveal that yarn composition significantly affects shrinkage and stretch. The results also highlight that higher core denier and the addition of a second core, e.g. CO-140D Lycra-75D T400, yield the highest values for shrinkage (~62%) and stretch (~166%) and CO-40D Lycra the lowest values (~46% shrinkage and ~108% stretch). Weft TM also influenced shrinkage and stretch moderately, whereas warp TM only influenced stretch. These findings provide valuable insights for the selection of yarn characteristics to control shrinkage and stretch to engineer the shape and allowance for body movement in garments woven directly on the loom. This knowledge serves as a foundation for developing sew-free woven garments with the desired shape and fit, promoting a sustainable approach by reducing wastage during garment production.